Day 6 Part 2 The road to Stewart

At the junction with the narrow road that plummets down to Stewart, we find these two signs. The first one is obvious.  

The second one needs an explanation. Hyder, Alaska is named after a Canadian engineer. It sends it's youngsters to school in Stewart, British Columbia. When there is trouble in Hyder, they call the RCMP detachment in Stewart BC. They attend the doctor and clinic in Stewart BC and buy their gas there. Just what goes with this Alaska USA town anyway?? 

It is a semi-ghost town of about 85 residents who live spitting distance across the border from Stewart. The thing of it is, that they have NO access road on their side of the border. They are ringed with mountains same as Stewart, but have no road access to the outside world except through Stewart. They literally are totally cut off from the rest of Alaska. Hence this rather strange bonding of countries in this one spot. The American side has no border guard, no Immigration inspection. People can flow into Hyder Alaska at any time day or night without stopping. They really don't care. However, on returning, there is a Canadian border guard and office which is open from 8AM to midnight. So timing is rather critical for visiting Hyder if one wants to return. Hyder is not nearly as successful as Stewart is with its international shipping potential, and a healthy population of 700 or so. Hyder's very existence depends on its big Canadian cousin to the south. But it does have a simply smashing glacier, supposedly one of the best, just an hour up their limited highway (it deadends). and it also has a fabulous bear watching raised boardwalk run by the US department of fisheries. So, we went to see. We didn't have time for the run up to the glacier but we were fascinated by the empty cottages of Hyder, rusting and rotting into the landscape, and the few lived in ones still clinging to existence. 

The photos for Stewart and Hyder are in the next blog, but now you have the significance of the two signs at the turn-off.

Coming down, the road is well engineered for reasonable speed, despite the drop from 1100 feet to the sea.

Along the way we saw a glacier melting into the river.

This is a close up of the melting lower edge of the glacier.

Same glacier.

We landed at Stewart and got an overnight at one of the better campgrounds, so we settled in. It was still early

afternoon so we took our cameras and headed for downtown Stewart and its American neighbour Hyder. Those are the next

entries. 

Barbara, Rick and Flossie

Day 6 part 1 Historic Native Village

On the road again en route to the village of Stewart on the Portland Canal, which is really a fjord about 60 miles long to the open Pacific Ocean. It was to be a short day, but we got sidetracked at a sign that said 2.5 km to Gitanyow, historic native village. So we turned off of course.

It was Sunday morning and very quiet. The village has a number of totem poles which you can see below and also read about them.

This is the village meeting house made traditionally of planks of cedar.

The local store...

Then on to Stewart. The highway is now filled with mountains, and apparently bears. 

Barbara Rick and Flossie

Old Hazelton

Just past the Witset Canyon is the turnoff to Old Hazelton. The sign said 5 km and maybe because of that we lost all the traffic on the highway. It was troublesome because there were habitations all along the road and they all looked old so we were having trouble deciding if we were there or not. We got to a single lane bridge that crosses a very deep gorge on the Bulkley River...

Rick took a photo of the river further on at a lookout.

Once we actually got to Old Hazeltown, it was quite obvious we had gotten it right. This is not one of those Disneyland faux villages. This village is still lived in and very much authentic, it just looks the same as it did 100 years ago! Perhaps the new highway being 5 kms away has been successful?

It has its own Steampaddle boat.

Colourful shop fronts.

By the time we got there we were losing light and still had a few miles to go, so we could not do it justice. Sigh.

That is becoming our travel mantra. So much to see, so little time!!

Barbara Rick and Flossie

Day 5 Part 3 Houston to Moricetown BC

We are in the back country and have to be keenly aware of the wildlife. Not mentioned on this sign are the black bear common in this area. Stay vigilant is the key thing. Do not get so distracted by the stunning scenery that you become lax towards your immediate surroundings. 

We pass through Smithers without taking much note, as from the road akk we can see are the usual commercial establishments found in every Canadian town. It is on a river plain surrounded by mountains although the ones on the other side are fairly distant. We were told that there is skiing here, but we did not see any ski runs on the mountains. We did see the glacier on Hudson Bay mountain, just on the far side of town.

Wild mustard growing on the slopes.

Old homestead.

The First Nations weir on the Bulkley River at Witset Canyon. This is absolutely lovely territory and worthy of much exploration. Next time!!

Church at Moricetown.

Barbara Rick and Flossie

Day 5 part 2 Houston BC

This is lovely Houston, population 2993. It seems much smaller and more intimate than that number would suggest. It certainly was friendly, and as you can see from their gardens, filled with civic pride. I asked the gardener about the winters and she said usually they last until March and are in the minus 10 to minus 30 degree range. I presume that is celsius , but anything is possble. It is here where we can first see the tips of the the mountain ranges looming ahead.

Barbara and Flossie

Next door to the gardens is this little historical collection of buildings and machinery.

The Anglican church, history is below.

The old school, explanation follows.

The old Houston fire truck.

End Houston

Barbara Rick and Flossie

Day 4 Part B Highway 97 to Prince George

Highway 97 is quite busy, particularly within the area of small communities. Rick noted that although the towns were small, they had amazing services, and were extremely busy, mostly because they served as the main centres for the farming areas around them. The skies cleared up slightly and we could see that the landscape had flattened out a great deal and had become undulating rather than vertical (ha). The type of forests had changed as well, with many deciduous birch and poplar mixed in with the fir and pine. We pass through the hamlets of 70 mile house, 100 mile house and 150 mile house. 100 mile house is named because a road house was constructed here in 1862 during the Gold Rush at the 100 mile mark from Lillooet. As recent as 1930, Lord Martin Cecil came out from England to 100 Mile House to manage the estate on behalf on his father, the 5th Marquess of Exeter. (I bet HE got a shock!!). All the other houses were named by distance from Lillooet as well.

Old rail fencing

150 mile house.

Farm on unknown lake. This area is riddled with lakes, if you consult a map you will see what I mean.

Our first sign of a Tim's in ages. We start to drool.

We cannot resist the second Tim Horton's for 2 teas, 2 lemon poppy seed slices, one glazed cinnamon swirl and an apple fritter. Yes, we were a bit peckish by now.

Corn fields.

Logs stacked at the mill. This is a place that depends heavily of the mills to support the local economy. They frequently provide a lot of community support, housing for the mill workers, and so forth. It shows. Ninety per cent of the drivers were rolling around in brand new 4 wheel drive pick up trucks.

Another  view of the shift to a mixed forest.  It looks like Ontario to me!

We are now camped on the outskirts of Prince George. The skies are clearing (fingers crossed) and should the sun god shine down on us tomorrow we will off on the Yellowhead Highway (16) to its intersection with the Stewart-Cassiar Highway (37) which is a key element of this trip. Until then, everybody stay well and happy and we will return to you soon.

Barbara Rick and Flossie the intrepid traveller.

Day 4 Part A, Lillooet to Highway 97

We heard rain in the night and woke to sodden skies. Yuck, I thought, until I stuck an arm out and realized that we had left the 35C heat behind and were now 15C. Terrific I then thought. Besides, being a Gabriolan means that rain comes naturally.

The next morning we left on the paved road 99 to highway 97 and immediately ran into a bit of trouble. Rain had caused a large mud slide that had taken a portion of the road with it. This road of course has no barrier between us and the valley below. Although it was just 8:30 AM, the road crew was already on it and they guided us through safely.

This is really a lovely corner of the province. As you can see, every bit of flattish land is put to agriculture.

So many old historic buildings slowly decaying back into the landscape. Who knows the history behind this one?

The Hat Creek Ranch complete with covered wagon. It is a 1870s historic ranch with restaurant, RV Park, and educational programmes for school groups.

Heeeere we go! Back onto the main route north, highway 97, to Prince George. It divides a wide river plain, between more distant mountain ranges on both side, and therefore has some fine farm and ranch land. More of that to follow…1